Day 1 - Sconser to Campsite. As planned, we all met at 0900 on Friday morning at the Sconser ferry ramp. The weather was clear, bright, and warm however the forecast predicted increasingly strong easterly winds developing over the course of the weekend. With this in mind the decision was taken to deviate from the guidebook and begin our circumnavigation up the east coast of Raasay; our theory being that we should have some shelter from the wind on our last leg back down the island. At 1000 we were all on the water and ready to head off. This came as an extremely pleasant surprise and throughout the exped’ the group were always well organised and ready to go at the agreed time; not something you get on every trip…..! A short open water crossing took us to Rubha na’ Cloiche then we began to follow the coastline anti-clockwise around the bottom of Raasay and up its east coast. Progress was initially slow as everyone chatted to their new paddling buddies however the group soon settled into their rhythm which quickly covered the miles. Easy paddling coupled with the odd sighting of a seal and an occasional sea otter kept the interest high and brought us to our first rest-stop in a lovely bay around the headland of Rubha na’ Leac. The bay also included a major distraction as it had a waterfall at the northern end of the bay. Now I wouldn’t normally relish getting soaked at the start of a 3-day adventure but in this case, exceptions were made. There’s something very childish about paddling through a cascade of water in your boat and the major plus was the warm sunshine to quickly dry us off. From there we settled back into the journey enjoying the scenery and the escort of sea eagles as we progressed towards Brochel castle and lunch. Unfortunately, the lack of wind meant it wasn’t just lunchtime for us but the midges too! These little b*stards really got stuck into us so it wasn’t long before we were back in the boats to finish our lunch afloat. The final stretch up to the campsite was uneventful with the exception of spotting a pod of porpoises against the backdrop of a submarine cruising northwards. Arriving at the campsite on the eastern side of Caol Eilean Tigh everyone quickly got sorted with tents set up in no time at all. A short walk up to the bothy to check things out resulted in a change of plan for a couple of campers who decided that a roof and solid walls were preferable to a night under canvas. The bothy gave us a place to cook out of the breeze (which by now was building as forecast) and somewhere to share experiences of the day over a glass (plastic cup) of wine.  Day 2 - Rona. After the usual no-sleep restful night in a tent everyone was up and about and after a hearty breakfast we loaded up for the days adventure. As the wind had not eased, we decided that a circumnavigation wasn’t an option but an exploration of the west side of Rona should give us the best chance of hiding from the strong easterlies. A short but enjoyable crossing of Caol Rona through the chop, hiding behind islets on the way, got us to the relative shelter of Rona. We slowly journeyed up the eastern side of the island and took in the remarkable scenery. A lunch stop in Acairseid Mhor including a check over the possibilities for camping near Rona Lodge, then we were out of the bay and northwards bound again. It’s worth noting that, according to the notes left in the bothy on Raasay, visitors to Rona are welcomed and even a boat pick-up is offered. Shortly after lunch we reached the last major bay on Rona, Loch a Bhraige. However as the wind was still very strong out of the west, we decided not to cross the bay and made our way back to the campsite for the night. The return journey was broken up by some towing practice which everyone seemed to enjoy. We were back at our tents by early evening and, once the all kit had been sorted, it was back up to the bothy for a bite to eat and story-swapping around the roaring fire. Sadly no-one could play the 5-stringed guitar so after a couple of drams it was time for bed.  Day 3 - Campsite to Sconser. Timing is everything in sea kayaking and we had a couple of really good examples of this on our leg of the expedition. The first occurred as we prepared to leave our campsite… The boat-packing routine was now well established and we were ready to go ahead of schedule. This meant the channel we were going to use (Caol Eilean Tigh saves about 4km of paddling) wasn’t quite ready for us. Our enforced wait brought us nicely back on schedule and as the tide rose and the channel filled, we were finally on our way home.
This first leg was a gentle paddle, again hugging the coast to stay out of the wind, down to Caol Fladdda. We had made good time and once more had an enforced break as we waited for the tide rise and allow passage over the causeway joining Raasay and Eilean Fladday (our 2nd timing example). Once over the causeway we had an open crossing from Ard an Torrain to Manish Point. This was only a 2km stretch but perfectly aligned with the direction of the wind. This meant the seas were quite lumpy and confused thereby not as enjoyable for some as the calm waters we’d had so far. This also helped us decide on whether or not to make a detour and try to see Calum’s Road. Regrettably for some this highlight wasn’t realised but the road, quite literally, isn’t going anywhere will be there for the next visit. After an uneventful crossing we quickly gained shelter from the weather once more and had a quick break just south of Manish Point on a little rocky beach. This gave access to a nice open area that would be a good campsite however we weren’t sure how easy landings on the beach would be if the wind was from the west. After this rest stop the fun began and coastline for the next few km’s was non-stop caves, overfalls, and surges. Most of the group really enjoyed this stretch and had their abilities challenged and expanded. Journeying and covering great distances is one aspect of sea kayaking but for me the best part is exploring the nooks and crannies of our coasts then making the most of playing in whatever presents itself. However, all good things must come to an end and we still had a few hours of paddling left to make it back to Sconser. By late afternoon it was time for another break and we pulled out onto the beach overlooked by Raasay House. We had a nice break lying in the warm sunshine resting our tired limbs in readiness for the last leg back to Skye. Another long day was coming to a close and, with a lot less chat than on day 1, the group crossed the Narrows of Raasay once more. Easing down Balmeanach Bay the ferry terminal finally came into view. Landing on the jetty in Sconser the expedition ended with a group photo and smiles all round. Three days of adventure was over, and the long drive home would give everyone time to reflect on their experiences. Summary – This was my first sea kayaking trip to the area and it didn’t disappoint. Outstanding scenery, incredible wildlife, and some good fishing were just a few of the aspects that made the journey so enjoyable. Due to a lack of easy landings and suitable ‘large group’ campsites this is quite a committing trip so don’t underestimate the length of the paddling day. The west coast of Raasay gave some really good play spots and I will go back sometime to cover the east of Rona. We covered ~30km on day 1, somewhere in the region of ~23km on day 2, then ~30km on the last day. Wind aside, the good, mainly dry, weather also helped as did the company and involvement of everyone who took part. I’d like to end by thanking all who took part for making this such a memorable trip.
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August 2024
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